Tbilisi – My Kind of Place for The National UAE

The juxtaposition of old and new makes Georgia’s capital city, Tbilisi , a popular long weekend-break crammed with cultural and culinary attractions. Travellers from the UAE can take advantage of the frequent flights and short flight times (just three-and-a-half hours) to enjoy the city sprawled beneath a 17^th Century fortress, with the Mtkvari River flowing through it. (@IshayGovender), For The National, October 2018

Snug between the Black and Caspian Seas and on the border of Europe’s highest mountain range, Georgia sits at the ancient crossroads between Asia and Europe on the Silk Road. The history of Tbilisi is, therefore, as rich and complex as that of Georgia’s. Several lengthy periods of conquest and invasion have lent it resilience; most recently, having emerged from the era of Soviet rule and the 2003 Rose Revolution.

Tbilisi is derived from the word tbili meaning ‘warm’ in Georgian, a reference to the city’s hot springs, which are housed within the sulphuric baths on the east bank. The old town boasts an Eurasian character with the winding streets and dilapidated facades attracting tourists a’plenty. Leafy squares, impressive churches of various denominations, museums and contemporary architecture give the city a broad appeal.

Find your feet

The Narikala Fortress is a prominent feature of the city’s skyline and the easiest way to get up is by cable car (2.5 GEL; Dh4 one-way) from Rike Park. If you’re fit, it’s just a 25-minute walk (though steep), from restaurant-lined Meidan. From the fortress, walk to the looming statue of Mother Georgia bearing a sword and a chalice (just before sunset is the best time) and soak in the views of Tbilisi Mkop below. From here you can take a scenic amble to the Shahtakhti fortress with remnants of a 7-9^th Century Observatory.

From the Peace Bridge, an avant-garde glass and steel footbridge, you’ll mingle with tourist and locals alike. Look out over the Mtkvari River for more curious, futuristic architecture like the two metal tubes at the north end of Rike Park which form the music concert hall and exhibition centre.

A comfortable bed

In the Vera neighbourhood, once favoured by artists and intellectuals, Rooms Hotel (www.roomshotels.com/tbilisi; +995 322 02 00 99) a four-star hotel, is located discreetly on a leafy street. Once a publishing house, the interior speaks to this with a plush library lounge with a fireplace and dark furnishings within rooms with high ceilings. Doubles from GEL669 (Dh999).

While it caters to conferences and larger groups, you can’t get more central than the Courtyard at the Marriot (www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/tbscy-courtyard-tbilisi; +995 322 77 91 00) overlooking Freedom Square. Doubles start from GEL283 (Dh 423) and the hotel has a fitness centre. It’s a five-minute walk from the Old Town.

Named after the legendary Georgian poet, Shota @Rustaveli, a boutique hotel (www.shotahotels.com;+995 322 19 20 21) on a peaceful side street off Rustaveli Avenue, prides itself in eco-friendly fixtures, high-quality German linen and spacious rooms. Doubles start at GEL1002 (Dh 1002)

Meet the Locals

Abanotubani is Tbilis’s ancient sulphur bath district. Join the locals (there are also private rooms) and soak away your cares– Abano No 5 is the oldest at roughly 300 years [about 60GEL (Dh90) for a private room]. At the Royal Bath [only private rooms, around 90GEL (Dh134) for a sauna, hot and cold tubs for two], you can book a scrub or massage for 15GEL (Dh22)

At the Dry Bridge Flea Market (9 Martis Park) you’ll find an eclectic collection of old items (daggers, coins, jewellery, paintings) sold by ex-professors and sellers who scour estates- it’s a great place to strike up a conversation and purchase a small heirloom.

The 6^th Century Medieval-style Sioni Orthodox Church in the Old Town is home to the cross of St Nino – sit on a ledge or bench outside where you can observe local families arriving to worship. You’re welcome to visit the outstanding murals inside between services.

Book a Table

In a hidden garden with tables spread under the large trees, Chef Tekuna Gachechiladze serves her ‘nouveau Georgian’ plates at Café Littera (www.facebook.com/cafelittera; 3 Ivane Machabeli St, +995 577 14 63 92, outside the rambling Georgian Writer’s Union building. Georgian favourites like lamb with adjika (red pepper paste), get a special twist. Average mains: GEL35 (Dh52).

Family-run Ezo (www.facebook.com/EZO.Restaurant;16 Geronti Kikodze St, +995 322 99 98 76), which means “yard” is a casual space in a backyard serving fresh organic produce and unfussy Georgian fare. The pkhali (walnut and vegetable paté) and the grilled meat platter, as well as a plate of cheese and salad, is an excellent meal to share. Average mains at GEL 20 (Dh30).

Under the Dry Bridge, locals gather at Zakhar Zakaharich (3 Right Bank, Mshrali Bridge; +995 591 17 40 00) for hand-made khinkali – pleated soup dumplings. Fillings include beef, cheese, potato, and seasonal wild mushrooms. Stick to the dumplings here – around GEL15 (Dh22). It’s perfect with salty Borjomi carbonated spring water with a dash of Tarragon soda.

Shopper’s Paradise

A visit to Tbilisi Mkop isn’t complete without a gander around the 2000-square meter Dezerter Bazaar (Tsinamdzgvrishvili St.) near the railway station, named after absconding soldiers who sold their arms here in the 1920s. Unless you speak Georgian, it’s best to book a tour with Culinary Backstreets [www.culinarybackstreets.com; GEL209 (Dh302) for a full day with food/drinks] who will guide you through an encyclopaedia of Georgian produce and specialities.

What to avoid

Groups from continental Europe sometimes arrive en mass to take advantage of the cheap food and nightlife – they can be rowdy.

Don’t Miss

If you’re travelling with kids don’t miss the amusement park (rides 1-5GEL, Dh1.50 -7.50) on the top of Mt Mtatsminda with a breathtaking ride up in a modern funicular (2-3GEL, Dh3-4, 50) – you’ll need to buy a plastic ticket at the office.

Get There

Norwegian Air (www.norwegian.com) has daily flights from Dubai, return with checked luggage from €260 (Dh 1120)

Learn more: www.visithelsinki.fi/en